It is a rare and beautiful thing to fall in love. I must confess I have rather fallen for Marrakesh.
Whilst buying a carpet -yes I went to Morocco and brought a carpet I’m a walking cliché- the shop owner, at the end of a lengthy and enjoyable barter, pleaded that when I returned home I portray the beauty of Morocco to my friends and family. So here goes…
It was love at first sight, the pure and simple thunderbolt of devotion. The first night I installed myself in the tourist trap that is any roof-top cafe surrounding Djemaa El-Fna, the main square cum open-air theatre of Marrakesh. I ordered a mint tea, sipped slowly and watched as beauty unfurled itself. Food-stalls readying their stands with billows of heady aromatic smoke, storytellers gathering crowds close with whispered wisdom, street performers dancing up a frenzy while all around them the entrancing call to prayer echoes from the many minarets that swathe the city in a reverent rejoice. Watching the sun beat a speedy retreat as if to give the city it’s night so that it may revel in it, I fell. Completely.
It is it’s friendliness that really came as a surprise not just the warmness towards us travelling folk but to one another, with close hugs and kisses upon cheeks. Smiles with no veiled cynicism. Their friendliness extended so much that one shop owner hearing that I had worked in a shop in India put me to work in his shop attempting to lure in tourists and sell them his wares, a task I failed miserably at but instead of fearing lost trade he made tea, laughed, and talked about his family.
It is a scarce thing for me to feel so at ease and at peace with a place, in fact it hasn’t happened since I arrived in Dharamshala almost ten years ago. The symmetry to my North India home was at sometimes painfully radiant (especially since it has been nearly a year since I was last there) from the kindness of the people to the landscape they live upon. This was truly rammed home when I went to Kasbah Du Toubkal, a North African Shangri-La nestled in the shade of the Atlas Mountains highest peak. An eco guest house with a conscience, providing breathtaking views and comfort for its guests and education and irrigation for the local villagers. I had a foggy sense of déjà vu as I walked around the local area before arriving at the Kasbah. It wasn’t until I arrived at the guest house and was shown a picture of when they filmed arguably the most famous biopic of the Dalai Lama’s life, Kundun, in the area did it strike me that I wasn’t the only one who felt its mirroring.
It is truly a difficult thing to put into words how much this place has struck me. Its intoxicating mix of chaos and beauty, warmness and peace served with a mint tea or two have created in me sheer contentment, a pure and vivid emotion. To help you empathise with me this week I will post a photograph each day that I think might help.
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22 Comments
It sounds like a truly amazing place, James. I need hints and tips and photographic opportunities.. as I am going there on Saturday!!
Really?! Shame it wasn’t two weeks ago we could have joined forces! Well I will be publishing pics all week but tips would most definitely be ask before taking pics of people, everyone is so friendly though. The main square is a street photographers dream but the central souks are too and if you get there while its quiet you can get some great shots. I’d recommend the Lonely Planet mini guide to Marrakesh too it was my bible!
We’ve got either the Rough Guide or Lonely Planet one… I’m really looking forward to it (if nothing more than a week doing very little!).
I can recommend a few places to eat too if you fancy it? The one thing I would really recommend is getting lost in the old town you see the most incredible things
I’ve heard the getting lost thing is a good thing to do, but yes, any food recommendations would be much appreciated! 🙂
Well the street stalls in the main square go to stand 114, they are so friendly and its all well priced. So delicious too! Cafe Kessabine also in the main square is a great place or their sister restaurant that they can direct you to which is in the souqs. Both offer great places to snap street shots.
On a point of randomness, what’s the position on wearing shorts?
haha not random at all I thought the same thing. I had shorts that went below the knee as I had read that it was considered a faux pas to have your knees on show but there were plenty of people wearing shorter ones. I took a pair of trousers but never felt the need to wear them really.
That’s good to know – the guidebooks I’ve read suggest shorts are a no-no; we’re taking jeans, but don’t really relish walking around in the blazing sun in jeans!
Well I shorted it the whole holiday and I didn’t get any judging looks
Good to know… They’re going to be packed!! Thanks, James! 🙂
Anytime!
Back from an excellent trip! Stall 114 and Cafe Kessabine were both great tips, thank you! It’s an amazing people-watching place! 😀
Glad you had such a great time. xx
I agree, I agree with every word! I went to Marrakech blast year and fell in love. In some ways scary, others just intoxicating. Listening to the call to prayer at dawn sent chills through me, still one of the most extraordinary things I have experienced.
I have heard the call to prayer in other countries before but there was something about it echoing from all those minarets, gave me goosebumps every time. Intoxicating is the right word, the smell of cooking especially.
Enchanting! Entrancing! Your love and enthusiasm for the place pours through your words! Now I cannot wait to get there! My only worry, I won’t want to come back! 😀 The same worry I have about visiting England too.
We are thinking of spending at least three days at Kasbah Du Toubkal. The photographs of that place are nothing short of awe inspiring.
Thank you so much for the wonderful tips!
And I can well image all the lovely memories you must have unrolled along with that carpet. 🙂
Tell them you booked it because of me as they are aware of my blog! When are you visiting the UK? I could have happily have stayed in Morocco I felt very very at peace
I will certainly mention your blog!
UK will hopefully be sometime in the near future. There is so much I want to see and experience there, it’s going to take me at least a year to come up with a semblance of an itinerary. 😀 The dream trip would be to England, Ireland, Scotland AND Wales…
Got to visit Wales it’s the best in my view but I’m a little bias!
I love travel blogs, especially the ones that make me feel like I am missing out on something wonderful. I don’t know that I will ever get to Marrakesh, but from reading your story and looking at your pics, at least I will be informed enough to regret it.
WONDERFUL STUFF! I’m Moroccan and I can say that thiss makes me very happy to read, I hopes that many many other people will read this and come to my country